Nice idea, Mummers!
Since Christmas fell on a Saturday, and Saturday is the Jewish Sabbath, and Israel is a Jewish State, and therefore buses wouldn't run on Saturday, we took an Arab bus most of the way to Bethlehem (see below for details).
In a strange way, it felt great to be in Bethlehem. It's an Arab village now, and it feels that way. Thing is, I've gotten used to feeling like the "different" one wherever I go. In Israel, I'm constantly mistaken for Israeli. And I haven't been in a place so similar to the United States since leaving Australia. Going to Bethlehem was like leaving "civilization" again, going back to a place where I'm the oddball. This is normal to me now.
the mosque opposite Manger Square |
The Church of the Nativity is nice. Not the largest or grandest church I've visited, but probably the most crowded--it was PACKED with pilgrims. A long line stretched from the back of the church all the way to the Grotto of the Nativity at the front of the church. Somehow, Davo and I managed to get to the front of the line by going to the opposite side of the church, then getting waved through to cross the apse. The actual spot where Baby Jesus was supposedly born is just a silver star on the ground. You can see it on Wikipedia, if you're interested.
sooo crowded! |
christmas tree at manger square |
For future reference, here's how to get from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. You'll need 13 schekels for the round-trip fare. Don't forget your passport.
(1) Go to the Arab bus station across from Damascus Gate:
(2) Get on Route #21. Hand the driver 6.5 schekels (he will make change if needed).
(3) You'll pass through a checkpoint on the way out, but don't worry--Israel doesn't care who leaves. Our bus barely slowed down on the way out.
(4) Get off at the end of the line (don't worry, the driver will kick you off). You are standing in the blue circle:
thanks, planetware, for the best bethlehem map i could find |
(4) Walk across Hebron Street, then uphill toward the east on Paul VI Street. From the bus stop to Manger Square, it's an easy walk, less than a mile up and then down a gentle hill. There is only one turn--when the street forks, stay left.
(5) For the return trip, stand on the opposite side of Hebron Street to catch the bus. Through the checkpoint on the way back into Jerusalem, you will need to get off the bus and wait in line to present your passport to the Israeli military.
I've heard that sometimes the military won't allow tourists to pass through the checkpoint that Rt. #21 uses. It's possible that the always changing rules were changed for Christmas tourists, who knows. I've also heard that there is a mini-bus, #124, that will take you to another checkpoint, from which you need to get a taxi the remainder of the way to Manger Square. I get the sense that the transport and security situation is constantly changing. Ask on the street before you leave, and if you don't make it to Bethlehem on your first try, chalk it up to an "experience" and try again later.
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