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Showing posts with label adirondacks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label adirondacks. Show all posts

Friday, May 29, 2015

46er!!! ...And the Next Adventure

On Saturday, May 23, 2015, I hiked to the top of Nippletop and became an (unofficial) 46er.

However, this trip report begins at 11:00 a.m. on Monday, December 29, 2008. Bear with me: I have a story to tell. It's a tale of adventure, struggle, character - and yes, it's also an old fashioned love story.

So here I am, the baby face of 6.5 years ago: I'm standing in lightly drifting snow, figuring out how to put on my snowshoes, fresh out of their eBay box. I've got my Columbia jacket I've had since college, with its thin fleece lining and non-water-resistant shell, and a pair of my mother's old wool mittens from Sears. The cap is already partially frozen onto my waterbottle. I am drastically under-prepared and dramatically over-excited, because it's Day 1, Mile 1 of my second winter hike ever, and my first High Peak experience.

I'm hiking with two friends and the guy I started dating seriously just a month before. The trail goes straight up, and it takes us 3 hours to go 2 miles because we stop every 1/2 mile. It bitterly cold on the summit, and savage winds make mincemeat of my sad jacket. But just like that, I've hiked my first High Peak.

Cascade Mountain, 12/29/2008
Then my boyfriend reminds me that we're not turning around just yet - there's a second summit "over there." I realize that anyone who hikes 46 of these beasts must be certifiably insane, plus possess powers of stamina, balance, fortitude, and power that I would never have. I was frozen to my core, my knees ached, and the roar of the wind took my breath and left me fearful - and exhilarated. I was so small on that mountain, yes, but I also was something that mattered, someone who could remain standing while the wind roared.

Why did I return to those mountains? Stubbornness? Curiosity? Something to prove? Adrenaline rush? Fear of missing out? A budding love of the wilderness? I don't know, because my first experience was kind of miserable.

But I did return.

Sometimes with friends...

Rocky Peak Ridge, 2/23/2012
Sometimes alone...

Phelps Mountain, 3/3/2013
But usually with that boyfriend. That boyfriend, who took me up the Trap Dike, over Colden, then up the back side of Algonquin to traverse the MacIntyre Range on my first ever backpacking trip. (Let's just say that he was trying to kill me, and if I survived, I'd make a decent girlfriend.)

Algonquin, 8/16/2009
Some of his "adventures" were my misadventures, and especially in the early days, I didn't always love him when we were in the mountains. But as the miles passed under our feet, we learned to work as a team. My developing backcountry skills gave me confidence to voice my opinions and needs. He learned to give appropriate feedback and recognition. And eventually, there were no more misadventures.

We hitched our lives together on the summit of Mt. Marcy, highest point in New York State: a fitting place for our love, born in the wild.

Mt. Marcy, 6/15/2013
Without noticing, I had hiked 28 of the High Peaks and had become one of those certifiably insane hikers who can start a one match fire and who carries a toothbrush without a handle (saves 15 grams!). 28 down, 18 to go - and then I thought I might finish, because what the heck: I, and he, and we were having fun.

Finally: the morning of Saturday, May 23, 2015. Today I finish my 46. I'm hiking with some friends, and of course, my husband. As we gain altitude, I start to see the back side of the Great Range, Haystack there, Colvin and Blake in front - memories from so many miles of trail, each peak an old friend now. Speaking of old friends, those hiking partners from my first High Peak trip are married, with a baby son, and live across the street. It's a bluebird day - reminds me of my wedding day - in fact, there's Marcy.

After 6 years, 4 months, and 25 days, 275 miles, 117,000 feet of elevation gain, 18 distinct trips spanning 27 calendar days, 3 pairs of hiking boots, 50 pounds of trail mix, and an infinite number of black fly bites, I summited at 12:45 p.m.


After 46 of these, there isn't much to say. It was a lovely day, and this adventure was complete.

Of course, the completion of one adventure always marks the start of the next one...


P.S.  Completing the 46 on Nippletop was a total coincidence - but it does make me chuckle.

Sunday, October 12, 2014

And Then There Were 43

Colvin & Blake.  14.8 miles.  4,310' elevation gain.  8 hours 54 minutes hours car-to-car.

colvin
blake
great range
autumn awesome

Marshall.  14 miles.  2,575' elevation gain.  EXACTLY 8 hours car-to-car.

mmmmarshall
marshall panorama
prettiest trail in the ADK
And now.

Allen.
Nippletop.
Sawteeth.

Which would you do last?

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Fast and Light: The Santanoni Range

Our typical strategy for hiking ADK mountains is to pack in, establish a base camp, hike some mountains, and pack out.  The upside to this approach is that I get to sleep in the woods.  The downside to this approach is that sleeping in the woods = larger pack = harder, longer duration hike.  It's like big wall climbing - as soon as you haul, everything gets harder!

We decided on a different approach for the Santanoni Range:  fast and light.  We'd hike the ~15.5 miles with ~4,900 feet of elevation gain over 3 trail-less summits in one day.  It worked fantastically well, and I think I'm going to push for this approach more in the future.

6:12 a.m.:  We hit the trail, headlamps blazing.  First ones to sign the register today.  Ate homemade breakfast bars while we hiked.


7:11 a.m.:  Dangerous bridge.  Someone needs to start a hipster band with that name.


7:53 a.m.:  Dave sees the fork in the trail and tries to eat it.  (TRAIL BETA:  this is the start of the Santanoni Express.)


8:16 a.m.:  Yes, the start of the Panther Brook trail does cross right over the top of a beaver dam.  (TRAIL BETA: As you're hiking along the blue trail, there are two trail bypasses.  Take the first one.  Don't take the second one - bear left on the old trail instead of right on the newer trail.  Look closely for the path across the swamp.)


8:17 a.m.:  I am not expecting views today.


9:49 a.m.:  Times square trail junction.

10:54 a.m.:  Couchsachraga!  That wasn't as bad as I expected.


12:12 p.m.:  Back to Times Square.  Turn left for Panther.


12:28 p.m.:  Panther Peak.  RAWR!


12:29 p.m.:  We are pretty darn muddy.  Yeesh.


 1:38 p.m.:  We zing across the ridgeline to Santanoni.  Really cruising now.


1:45 p.m.:  Down the Santanoni Express.  

2:00 p.m.:  I know we cross Santanoni Brook right before the Express joins the blue trail.  I hear rushing water a knee-crunching, soul-destroying hour before reaching the blue trail.  Fake out!

2:38 p.m.:  I engage in an extended verbal dialog with the trail in an effort to get it to end.  I offer it food in exchange for ending.  I also threaten to pee on it if it doesn't end.

3:03 p.m.:  The trail ends when I threaten to have Dave fart on it.  Works every time.  We're back at the blue trail.

3:04 p.m.:  We realize we have a shot at completing the hike sub-10 hours.  Now we're really cruising!


3:41 p.m.:  We are not tired enough, so we trail-run the last 1.8 miles along the jeep road.


4:03 p.m.:  Laughing and gasping for air, we tear into the parking lot 9 hours and 51 minutes after we left.  Excellent marriage advice:  marry someone of equal crazy.


4:04 p.m.:  We notice the guy who signed in right after us, and who passed us about 5 minutes down the trail, finished in 7 hours and 10 minutes.  Mike from Clifton Park, you are a beast!


P.S.  40 down, only 6 to go!

Sunday, August 10, 2014

Switchbacks Are For Suckers

Hiking the Adirondack Seward Range & Seymour Mountain

I have hiked all over the place, from New Zealand to Montana.  I believe that nowhere - nowhere - brings the misery like the Adirondacks.  Thick clouds of blackflies, bad weather, knee-deep mud, horrifically steep and eroded trails...

Yeah, "trails."

Dave and I had a good dose of horrifically steep and eroded trails when we hiked the Seward Range and Seymour Mountain.  By far, these peaks were the hardest trails of the summer, way harder than anything we hiked in California, Oregon, Washington, Montana, or Wyoming.

Switchbacks?  What are those?  :-)

Our route:

  • Day 1 we hiked in via Ward Brook, made camp at Ward Brook Lean To (just past 2), hiked Seward (3) - Donaldson (4) - Emmons (5) - Donaldson (4) - Seward (3).
  • Day 2 we hiked Seymour (6), broke camp (just past 2), and hiked back out.


The walk in via Ward Brook is totally cruiser.  We chose to tent near the Ward Brook Lean-To, because that site is between the herd path turn-offs for Seward and Seymour.  Other folks stay at Blueberry or #4.  I'd pick Blueberry over #4, so you have a shorter distance back to camp after Seward.

The turn-off for Seward is really easy to find - it's just after this bridge!


The north approach to Seward has the reputation for being awful.  It's muddy, steep, and rough, but it's not insane.  Take the back side of Algonquin, add the cliffs of Cliff, and season with the mud of Iroquois.  So:  muddy, steep, and rough.



The hard part of the day is leaving Emmons.  Why?  The trail is easiest at this point!  But knowing that you are about to reverse all of the hard work you did, going back over the two mountains you just hiked....


Some folks exit down Calkins Brook, but I think that would take just as long.  And the trail really isn't that bad.  Be careful on the way down, though - we missed a cairn and needed to backtrack to avoid a bushwhack.


In camp, we found a frog in a tree.  He was cute.


The trail up Seymour is also steep, eroded, and muddy, but not as bad as the north side of Seward.  The trail is easy to find from Ward Brook.  The worst part was the rawness of my shoulder blades under my pack.


After Seymour, it's an easy pack out, again via Ward Brook.  The perfect overnight!

The trip is somewhere around 23ish miles, with somewhere around 5,000 feet of elevation gain.  Of those 23 miles, around 13ish are the aforementioned muddy, steep, eroded, unmaintained summit herd path.  Dave and I averaged about 1 mile per hour on these sections.  

Like I said...  easily the hardest trail I've done all summer...  and right in my backyard!  Take that, Western states with your big mountains!

P.S.  High Peaks count:  37 down, 9 to go!

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

9 Degrees Farenheit

This morning, it was 9 degrees Farenheit.  Almost 13 below Celsius.

On December 25, I'd wear long johns and two sweaters under my down jacket when the temps hit single digits.  

On March 25?  I am a honey badger who waits for the bus wearing dress slacks and a single jacket.  Our home temperature has been set at 60 degrees for months.  My body seriously overheats when the temps go above 70 (as in, sweating in a tank top).

Winter, I have conquered you.  Now, can you leave?  Please?

Unlike the ridiculously lame winter of 2011-2012, this winter was REAL (cold).  Plenty of snow, plenty of sub-zero temperatures.


It was cold enough that our pond froze solid, at least 6 inches thick in some places!

skating on our pond
While we were stuck inside, Dave and I nailed (heh) our first big DIY project.  In retrospect, home improvement projects should happen only in the seasons that permit use of a circular saw outdoors.  Besides the insane amount of sawdust that ended up everywhere, I'm super pleased with the results and how well we worked together.  In fact, we made only 1 extra trip to the hardware store, only because we purchased the wrong sized jigsaw blades.

before:  broken, disintegrating, mouldy tile counter tops + no dishwasher
after:  basic laminate counters + dishwasher.  i don't know why the cabinets are different colors.
Once we had a dishwasher to wash huge stacks of plates, it was party time: the Third Annual Not New Year's Bash, celebrated in style, with Dave swinging around a few gentlemen monkey bars.


In between the cold and the cold, we dog-sat for a retired sled dog on his way to his retirement home in Virginia.  Not so retired that he couldn't pull my lazy butt down the South Hill Rec Way a few times!

go skijor!
This winter was my first trip to Salmon River Falls.  Conditions were excellent that day, so even though I was tired, I hopped on the amazing line "Mate, Spawn, & Die" - and climbed it cleanly, surprising myself.

that's actually dave climbing, but i did that, too.  amazing climb.
Our one trip up to the Adirondacks this winter was a bit of a bummer.  My work life has been stressful, leaving little mental energy for butt-whupping in the backcountry.

this looks how my brain feels
Dave, Chris, Nick, and I hiked Algonquin in horrible conditions; the 50 mph sustained winds were yanking me off my feet, and I wanted to be anywhere but on that mountain.

Dave, Nick, and I tried to climb Cascade Pass, but we didn't have the right equipment or beta and bailed after two short distance, long time, very cold pitches.  Nasty weather and uncertainty are fun when you have the mental stamina to deal with them.  I didn't.
views of the great range from the top of algonquin.
not pictured: insane wind speeds
The best part of the weekend was partaking of traditions with friends.
every. frickin. time.
So, now we're staring down spring.  COME ON, SPRING!!

disgustingly grossly cute
More adventures on the way.  :o)

Saturday, June 15, 2013

Married on Marcy

On Saturday, June 15th, I married my most favorite person on the planet (that would be Davo!) in one of our most favorite places on the planet (that would be the summit of Mt. Marcy in Adirondacks!).

It was epic.

awww heck yeah!
And since it was fairly dang epic, I figure it deserves a little trip report.



Day 1 (in blue), Friday June 14th:  Loj to Marcy Dam, Avalanche Pass, Avalanche Lake & the Hitch-up Matildas, Lake Colden, and up the Opalescent River to a tent site near Feldspar Lean-To.

Highlights:
**a sandwich with about 3/4'' of meat and cheese at Avalanche Pass;
**cussing my head off trying to navigate around Avalanche Lake with a pack loaded with champagne and a wedding dress;
**the lovely hike up the Opalescent River, very pretty.

Conditions were pretty good along these sections of trail; everything was about as muddy as I expected (and not nearly as bad as later in the trip).  A thunderstorm rolled through in the early evening, but otherwise the weather was decent.  Didn't experience too many blackflies, either.  The hiking was more tiring than I was expecting; not only were we carrying four days worth of food, we were carrying nicer (i.e. heavier) food, plus some champagne, plus all of our wedding clothes and stuffs, etc.

looking back at Avalanche Lake
Day 2 (in purple):  Marcy, Skylight, and Grey

Highlights:
**Holy guacamole, we got married!!


The quick story...  we had been watching the weather obsessively since late May, and it looked like 6/15 would be clear and cold.  That'll do!

We got up early and left camp by 7:00.  I did my hair at Lake Tear of the Clouds, source of the Hudson River.  This is about the point that the butterflies started in my stomach.
The hike from Feldspar Leanto to Marcy is straight forward.  I half regret not trying for the summit at dawn, but then again, I like sleeping and wanted to be mentally sound for such an important day.  I washed my boots at the timberline so they wouldn't wipe mud all over my dress, and then we finished the hike to the summit.  Putting on makeup 10 miles from the nearest road is a surreal experience.

And then it was time to get married.


So how did this all work?  We were legally married in the State of New York in early May, so we did not need an officiant for our ceremony.  In our experience, involving God or the government in a promise between two human beings does not seem to improve the odds of success.  Instead, we had a self-uniting ceremony (legal in Colorado and Pennsylvania!), reading our vows to each other and exchanging rings.


It was one of the most important, emotionally charged, memorable, and special memories of my life.  :-)

The weather at the summit was great - clear, cold, and windy, but not so bad that I couldn't take off my coat for a few photos!  We stayed on the summit, just enjoying the views and relaxing, for about two hours.  We both ended up with sunburn on our noses.


Finally, it was time to drag ourselves away from the summit.  We put on our awesome "Just Married!" shirts and hiked back down to Four Corners.


The hike up Skylight was straightforward, and we lingered on the summit, talking to some other hikers.  The hike up Grey was also straightforward, though a bit messier, and with fewer views, so we didn't linger quite as long.  We returned to camp in the late afternoon, having taken something like 9 hours to cover the 6 mile day.

We greeted a DEC ranger, who would be the last person we would see for the next 36 hours.  That was one of my favorite parts of the trip - time totally alone with my new husband, getting used to the feeling of being married.


Good thing we like each other, because our weather window got smashed with a baseball bat on Sunday.

Day 3 (in yellow):  Redfield and Cliff Mountains

Highlights:
**We didn't get hypothermia or zapped by lightening.  Count yer blessings.
**The trail on Redfield was more fun and more interesting than I was expecting for a "trailless" peak.
**Laying in the tent with my new husband, playing the letter game to pass the time while it rained.
**Running around, collecting our stuff in the rain, and sprinting to the lean-to to set up a dry camp - hilarious!


Tried to wake up early to beat the afternoon thunderstorms, but man Day Three always kicks my butt.  We got a decently early start, slightly after 7:00 a.m.  The hike up Redfield was straight forward, following a river that turned into a creek that turned into a drainage, the trail joining and splitting from the water.  We didn't stay long at the top, expecting the weather to turn, and by the time we reached the junction for the Cliff Mtn. trail it had started to drizzle.


Conditions on Cliff were pretty bad - extremely muddy.  There were a few times that I was thankful for my climbing skills, as it was more secure to throw in a hand jam than attempting to palm a wet sloper.  We did our best to climb carefully, not to pull on vegetation, not to slip all over the place, in a lame attempt to minimize erosion, but I don't know if there's much that can be done when the trails look like ^that^ (other than come back another day, but I don't know if this mountain is ever not a huge pile of muddy cliffs).

By the time we reached the top, it was raining.  I was not psyched for the descent.


Back at camp, we stripped off our wet clothes and hopped in the tent to dry.  2:00 p.m.  Lots of time until dinner and bedtime.  Good thing we like each other.


As soon as our tent started doing this:


I knew it was time to make a break for it.  We grabbed all of our stuff and moved over to the now vacant Feldspar Lean-To.  Finally, some room to spread out, hang up our soaking wet gear, and cook dinner in a dry space!


Day 4 (in red):  Feldspar Lean To to Lake Arnold, Indian Falls, Tabletop Mountain, Marcy Dam, and the Loj

Highlights:
**Making it across the sketchiest bog crossing I have ever experienced
**Summiting our sixth mountain in four days
**Arriving at a Marcy Dam lean-to just as thunderstorm rolled through
**Having rationed just enough food not to be hungry

Man, it sucks to put on wet boots in the morning.  You know what sucks even more?  This:


That crossing, somewhere between Feldspar Lean To and Lake Arnold, is AWFUL.  Those logs aren't resting on anything - they're floating.  And that log to the left?  It rolls.  I may have had a minor freak out.  Dave had to walk first me, and then my pack, across.  Thanks, honey!  After a night of hiking, this trail on the south/east side of Colden (which is usually wet to begin with) was a total mess.

The rest of the hike wasn't too bad, though my pack was so heavy that I was really struggling.  We stopped at Indian Falls for a very quick photo (hmm, look at those clouds over Algonquin), then quickly ran up Tabletop Mountain.  Dave commented that we made it up there quickly, and I said "Sure we did - I get to eat a Clif Bar at the top!"  Yeah, food was running a bit low at that point.  Made it to Marcy Dam just as the heavens opened and a thunderstorm rolled through.  Luckily for us, it was a convenient lunch stop, so we ate some food and waited out the rain.

The walk from Marcy Dam to the Loj was pretty special.  We entered the woods as individuals and emerged a new little family unit.  With the mud, the rain, the blackflies, and the heavy packs, we had no need to smash a glass in the Jewish tradition at our ceremony - we had already experienced our trials and emerged stronger as a result.

checking out of the trail register...  mr. and mrs.
And that was the trip.  It was everything we had hoped for, and then a little bit more.


May there be many miles of happy trails in our future.  :-)

P.S.  More photos here.

P.P.S.  We made an awesome album using Shutterfly - check it out!